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Deciduous trees and shrubs

In winter, deciduous plants shed leaves and send food reserves to their roots. If you prune in winter or spring they then have ample resources to regrow and balance their roots with their top growth. If you prune in summer then you are removing food reserves in the green leaves.

Spring pruning (before flowering)

If your plants flower from July - October and are deciduous, then you can prune these plants in spring. Food reserves from the roots will soon send out new shoots which then tend to flower at the ends of the new growth.

Prune last year’s growth to just two or three buds above healthy thick stems to provide a good framework for the new growth.

Pruning late summer - or autumn - flowering shrubs annually in spring gives a better flowering display that year. Pruning also keeps growth in check and improves overall plant health.

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Deciduous shrubs that flower from mid-summer onwards

Examples: Buddleja davidii (pictured), Caryopteris, Fuchsia, Perovskia, Spiraea japonica

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Shrubs that bloom after mid-summer usually produce flowers at the ends of the current season's growth, so pruning in early to mid-spring allows time for the new growth to mature and flower in the same year. Avoid pruning in winter, as it may lead to frost damage of new shoots.

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In early to mid-spring cut back the previous year's flowering stems to within one or two buds of the older woody framework. Also remove any thin, weak or dead growth.

Fuchsia may need cutting back to near ground level. This stimulates development of strong new growth on which flowers will be produced in late summer.

Pruning as early in spring as possible will give the maximum growing period for the young shoots

Summer pruning (after flowering)

If your plants flower from November - June and are deciduous, then you can prune these plants immediately after flowering. This will remove much of the food reserves in the green leaves and prevent the strong and flowerless growth you would get from spring pruning. Flower buds are not formed on the new growth but on existing branches.

Prune flowered stems back to a strong upright shoot as low as possible. Older branches which flower weakly are best removed. Remove one stem in three e.g. a shrub with five stems would have the two largest and oldest shoots removed down to 25-45cm (10-18in) above the soil.

Deciduous shrubs that flower in late winter, spring and early summer

Examples: Ribes, Forsythia, Philadelphus, Weigela (pictured), Kerria, Neillia, Prunus triloba

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They usually flower on the previous year’s growth. Pruning immediately after flowering allows the maximum time for development of young growth to provide the following year’s flowers before the end of summer.

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Pruning requirements depend on the type of shrub, but all early-flowering shrubs need routine removal of damaged, diseased or dead wood, as follows:

• Cut out any damaged or dead shoots back to their point of origin or to ground level

• Where there are many stems remove some to ground level to keep the bush open and avoid congestion

• Finally take out any weak, spindly or twiggy shoots right to the point of origin or to ground level so the plant concentrates its resources on strong new shoots that will bear the best flowers

Evergreen trees and shrubs

Evergreen trees and shrubs do not lose their leaves in winter and do not store food reserves in their roots. Pruning in autumn and winter could potentially damage the plant, as it can unbalance the root to shoot ratio during a period when it is too cold to regrow. The best time to prune is after flowering. If the plant needs to be renovated, or severely reduced, this can be done late winter and early spring just before growth begins.

Remove old flowers (deadhead)  and cut back to healthy outward facing buds. Remove damaged, diseased, old wood and straggly growth. Take out stems and branches to improve congestion and balance the plant.

When to prune evergreen shrubs

Once established, most evergreen shrubs are fairly low maintenance and need little or no regular pruning. Pruning, when required, is generally carried out in mid to late spring.

Many small shrubs such as lavender, and heathers (Calluna, Erica) are generally short-lived and will need replacing after 10 years or so. These shrubs flower on new wood, so pruning these plants annually will improve flowering and extend their life and prevent them from becoming too woody.

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Larger shrubs, such as rhododendrons, generally require very little pruning, except for the removal of unhealthy, dead, diseased and damaged shoots. Likewise, slow-growing shrubs also require little or no regular pruning, except the removal of unhealthy shoots in mid-spring.

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You can prune most evergreen shrubs just before growth starts in mid-spring, after any risk of frost has passed. Pruning at this time will avoid frost damage to new shoots, and any pruning scars will be concealed by new growth.

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Evergreens that are still flowering or about to flower in mid-spring can be left until flowering has finished.

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When pruning any evergreen shrub (except old, overgrown shrubs, see below), aim to remove about one-third of older wood in total.

• Prune out any diseased, damaged or dead shoots using long-handled loppers or a saw if necessary

• And finally, thin out crowded shoots and any badly positioned ones that spoil the shrub’s appearance

• After pruning, plants benefit from mulching and feeding. Use either a general-purpose fertiliser or specialist rose or other high-potassium fertiliser